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DIY: Pull your own motor. Lots-o-pics - NASIOC

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Tags: diy subaru wrx-sti mechanical engine-rebuild motor
Clipped on: 2015-11-17

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Image (Asset 15/85) alt= DIY: Pull your own motor. Lots-o-pics
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Image (Asset 24/85) alt= 07-08-2007, 11:28 PM   #1
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Member#: 44572
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
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2005 STi
Built and Ported

Image (Asset 25/85) alt= DIY: Pull your own motor. Lots-o-pics

Why pay someone else to screw it up when you can do it yourself!

I may miss something or do something different from you or have a different setup than you. oh well I'm just trying to help.

I take crappy pics so try and deal.

Pre-pull.
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1. Remove battery and washer tank to unplug the 2 engine connectors
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2. My car is different here so you'll have to deal. Remove fmic pipe and unplug ebc, front o2, and 2 more engine plugs.
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3. Remove the rest of the fmic pipes and fuel lines, i labeled which line goes where.
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4. Remove belts, unplug ac(1 grey plug)/alternator (1 green plug 1 wire under red boot bolts on)/power steering pump(1 white plug)
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Last edited by beavis820; 07-09-2007 at 12:29 AM.
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Image (Asset 36/85) alt= 07-08-2007, 11:36 PM   #2
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 44572
Join Date: Oct 2003
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2005 STi
Built and Ported

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5. Unbolt air conditioning compressor. you do not have to discharge.
2 top bolts
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1 hiding at the bottom of the black bracket
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2 hiding underneath. a mix of extensions and a swivel
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Just before you pull the motor flip it into the battery tray.
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6. I like to get under the car and undo anything that maybe in the way before I pull the radiator.
Uppipe and front o2 sensor.
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Downpipe
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Motor mounts (I forgot and had to go back)
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EWG. I did mine from the top but it is easier from the bottom.
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Image (Asset 49/85) alt= 07-08-2007, 11:46 PM   #3
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 44572
Join Date: Oct 2003
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Built and Ported

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7. Mess time. Remove radiator.
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Bottom of the bucket is stained brown. No it didn't come out this color.

I pulled my t-stat to help the drain process.
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While your making a mess dont forget the heater core hoses on the back of the motor.
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Make sure to make a huge mess on your friend's freshly (5 day old) finished garage floor and make sure to not tell him while he was at ALMS.
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Now while you clean up make sure to knock your light over so it burns out.
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Then trade light bulbs with your friend's garage and let him find out in the dark.
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8. Relocate the power steering pump (just like your ac).
2 bolts up front
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1 under the intake manifold. get out you swivel and extension mix again.
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Flip it when your ready to pull.
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It should look like this
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I zip tied the engine harnesses onto the motor so i do catch them on something and use the engine crane to uncatch them.

Last edited by beavis820; 07-09-2007 at 12:39 AM.
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Image (Asset 63/85) alt= 07-09-2007, 12:00 AM   #4
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9. Remove starter
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I already had 1 bolt out so the top bolt that is sticking out had a ground on it.
There is a 1 wire plug and a big wire on a stud like the alternator.

10. Remove turbo. Straight forward when you have a UR GT35R. Comes out on the uppipe.
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11. Transmission bolts. Theres a bunch don't miss any.
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And a nut WAY down on both sides.
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No pic on the drivers side but it's there.

Pitch stop has to be unbolted in the front
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12. Disconnect clutch fork from throwout bearing.
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10mm hex
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Thread something in. I use 1 of the battery tie downs (stolen idea from themadscientist)
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Image (Asset 77/85) alt= 07-09-2007, 12:15 AM   #5
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Pull up on the clutch fork to disengage.

Down.
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UP
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There is a little spring on it I removed somewhere earlier without a pic.

13. Jack up trans. Only need enough to get the motor mount studs out of the crossmember (maybe an inch).
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14. Strap/chain the motor and get the engine crane on it.
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Lost the pic with the crane I wanted to use.

Tension the strap on the crane so the weight of the motor is supported by the crane. Shake, pull, pry whatever however you can to separate the motor/trans. It will be tough because the alignment dowels get a little rusty.

I antiseized mine last time so it came apart enough for me to sick in a pry bar.
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Separate enough to clear the trans input shaft.
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Now jack the motor up enough to clear the front of the car and roll it out.

15. Put motor on stand.


I lifted the stand onto the motor instead of the motor onto the stand. See how smart I am.
 
07-09-2007, 12:24 AM   #6
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16. Support the trans. I have a block of wood that is used for nothing else.



Remove the jack.

Now I stopped taking pics after I broke the cam gears loose. I only pulled it to fix some oil leaks that I've had in the cam area.



i had my pry bar in the flywheel from when i took the crank pulley off but i dont think its needed.



first dont use a craftsman 10mm hex socket for removal.



i use a 10mm allen and wrench together.

this was just a pic showing what i use to remove the bolts i took the timing belt off and used an old 1 as shown in the lower pics.


2 pairs of vice grips and 1 old timing belt





carefully use the allen and wrench and it'll come right off w/out stripping or breaking anything.

i also turn the crank and cams so if i do slip the belt (i havent yet) it doesnt turn the valves into the pistons

Last edited by beavis820; 10-08-2007 at 01:34 PM.
 
07-09-2007, 12:24 AM   #7
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I hope you were neat because all this has to go back together at some point.




When I put it back in I'll take some more pics but install is pretty much backwards from this with a few exceptions that I'll note when it goes back in.

Good Luck

Last edited by beavis820; 10-08-2007 at 01:34 PM.
 
07-09-2007, 12:24 AM   #8
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Nice write up! I like to use the ALT cover bolt to pull the clutch pin.
 
07-09-2007, 12:29 AM   #9
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Very nice, please don't ever un-host these pics. I will need this one day!
 
07-09-2007, 12:35 AM   #10
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he! he! you're funny. Nice job.
 
07-09-2007, 12:48 AM   #11
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Awesome thread! I can see this coming in handy for a lot of the members.

Thank you
 
07-09-2007, 01:41 AM   #12
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some stuff to watch out for.
1.) Remove the A/F sensor on the manifold. Just a slightest nudge will break the sensor. (I broke my)
2.) I pulled the motor without having the move the pitch rod. (optional maybe)
Great pictures.

eddie
 
07-09-2007, 02:21 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garage Spec
1.) Remove the A/F sensor on the manifold. Just a slightest nudge will break the sensor. (I broke my)
did you read step 6?
 
07-09-2007, 10:17 AM   #14
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Is it out AGAIN?

TMS
 
07-09-2007, 10:48 AM   #15
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ya but i'm just fixing the oil leak that we tried to do in the car.
 
07-09-2007, 12:03 PM   #16
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This is awesome, thanks so much!

Planning on doing this in the next year lol
 
07-09-2007, 03:25 PM   #17
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Good stuff.
 
07-09-2007, 03:36 PM   #18
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thank you very much for taking the time to do this. it is well done. i have added this to my favorites and will be reviewing it when I pull my motor.

thanks!!!!!!!

in fact, if it is not to much trouble, could you emial all your pics to me at sscialli@lazydays.com

Steve
 
07-09-2007, 04:03 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdfrk
Very nice, please don't ever un-host these pics. I will need this one day!
Easy solution. Color print it NOW!
 
07-09-2007, 06:06 PM   #20
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I'm rooting for this to be the last time you ever have to do this!!
 
07-09-2007, 06:49 PM   #21
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nice job matey
 
07-10-2007, 02:12 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor723
I'm rooting for this to be the last time you ever have to do this!!
you dont have to tell me. want to put it back in for me? it's going to be a chilly 88* tomorrow.
 
07-10-2007, 02:12 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMadScientist
Is it out AGAIN?

TMS
Last time, I swear. It has to be perfect or I'm not going to be happy.
 
07-10-2007, 02:15 AM   #24
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OOOOOOOOOOOHHHH!!

Saved for a few months from now.


How long does it take you now, to pull the motor out and have it on a stand?
 
07-10-2007, 08:59 AM   #25
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I'm betting a few hours. The subie looks like it's so easy to pull the engine. My old DSM was a PITA to pull.
 
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