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Underdog's EJ255 Teardown & Rebuild - Page 2 - Subaru Legacy Forums

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#16: 10-18-2009, 08:48 PM
 
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Title: Contributing V.P.
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Agree with unclemat, in a stage 2+ car I'd stick with OEM rods, crank, gaskets, might want to go with a 11-12mm oil pump vs. shim, and timing belt.

I'm too lazy to write out all the stuff that went into the build. There is not much I did not do. I'm considering swapping out to the Cosworth intake and TGVs (when they come out), but this will mean fabrication of new IC piping.
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#17: 10-18-2009, 08:54 PM
 
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Title: Trunk Monkey Chief
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whats so bad about rods?
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#18: 10-18-2009, 09:09 PM
 
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Title: Flying W00t Monkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOMSWGN Image (Asset 26/30) alt=
Agree with unclemat, in a stage 2+ car I'd stick with OEM rods, crank, gaskets, might want to go with a 11-12mm oil pump vs. shim, and timing belt.

I'm too lazy to write out all the stuff that went into the build. There is not much I did not do. I'm considering swapping out to the Cosworth intake and TGVs (when they come out), but this will mean fabrication of new IC piping.
I'm not gonna worry about particular internals yet, until I know the extent of the damage. I think stock rods would be fine but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

Can you explain the 11-12mm oil pump vs. shim statement?
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#19: 10-18-2009, 09:16 PM
 
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Upgraded pump matters when you increase bearing clearances and plan to spin the motor faster. I run shimmed 10mm pump, and it holds pressure without problems. There are many schools of thought but I subscribe to the shimmed pump camp. 12mm pump (from some JDM engines) is considered unreliable. 11mm pump (08+ STI) has increased volume but not pressure. Extra volume is needed to drive exhaust side AVCS on 08+ STI. With extra bearing clearances/higher rpms there is no need for more volume, but more pressure, hence shimmed 10mm pump seems to make sense.
#20: 10-18-2009, 09:22 PM
 
Title: Flying W00t Monkey
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Ahh, so since I am planning on stock redline and/or stock clearances, this isn't as much of an issue for me... right?

Although it would seem having additional flow volume available would be a good thing, and the 11mm pump is cheaper according to the FBP site.
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#21: 10-18-2009, 09:26 PM
 
Title: Twinscroll troll
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Underdog
Ahh, so since I am planning on stock redline and/or stock clearances, this isn't as much of an issue for me... right?
Well, stock clearances are pretty tight and if you want to push the motor a little bit opening them up while you're there is not a bad idea. But stock will be alright, too. Remember, stock bearings are stupidly expensive, so unless you buy whole new stock short block, you'll be probably looking at aftermarket bearings anyway, and then I am not sure what's the availability of sizes.
#22: 10-18-2009, 09:29 PM
 
Title: Flying W00t Monkey
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Okay, well at least I will be aware of that when the time comes to decide.

I think the killerb oil pickup is the best option for the new engine right? Stock would just be a ticking time bomb?
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#23: 10-19-2009, 12:48 AM
 
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Of all the aftermarket pickups I like KillerB's the best. I've got one in a box, just haven't gotten around to installing it yet. (Gonna be really pissed if the stocker fails in the meantime!)
#24: 10-19-2009, 12:14 PM
 
Title: Flying W00t Monkey
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For those of you that have worked with the engine... I am debating taking everything off the engine while it is in the car, or pulling the whole assembly and tearing it down on the bench. I would imagine stripping down the engine would be easier out of the car, but maybe I am wrong.

If it is easier to just pull the long block, is it worth investing $50 in an engine stand from harbor freight? I realize you need to split the block in half to do internal work, but for everything else, it seems like the engine stand is the way to go.

Opinions?

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#25: 10-19-2009, 12:17 PM
 
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Pull the whole engine out, no question about it. An engine stand is a must. HR one is ok.
#26: 10-19-2009, 12:38 PM
 
Title: Flying W00t Monkey
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Yeah, that's what I figured. Thanks for the quick reply unclemat.

If I can get to HF and back early enough, the work will start tonight.

Would you remove the hood to pull the motor, or just prop it up at the highest angle possible?
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#27: 10-19-2009, 12:40 PM
 
Title: Twinscroll troll
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No need to remove it. Just prop it up. There is another hole below the regular one to keep it higher with the stock hood rod.
#28: 10-19-2009, 12:43 PM
 
Title: Burning Monkey
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Underdog - If you feel you have the time and willingness (and maybe it'll help you out with getting member insights), would you mind posting a little info and pictures on pulling the whole engine out? I'd love to see and read about that on our cars.

Joe
#29: 10-19-2009, 12:47 PM
 
Title: Flying W00t Monkey
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I can't believe you would expect anything less.

I plan on taking lots of pics... partially to provide info for the forum, but mostly so I can remember how to put things back together.
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#30: 10-19-2009, 02:18 PM
 
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Underdog here is a good reference from Nasioc on pulling the motor. Might have some good info for you.

Engine removal
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1301065

Engine tear down
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1435733
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